Just treat you board as describe and it will serve you for a long long time
It's easy as 1-2-3
1. After use, wipe down the board with a soft, wet cloth
2. Dry the board with the towel
3. Grease the board with any suitable food-safe oil at least once a month
What is not recommended
1. Using the board for chopping bones and non edible items
2. Washing the board in the dishwasher and storing the board in a humid place
3. Drying the board in the oven, microwave, or next to the heater
Putting aside the harm of Plastic to Nature, now we can state that even in the consumer properties the wooden chopping boards are better.
Many of the assumptions about plastic being a more sanitary material than wood for cutting boards have been undermined by research. Yes, plastic is less porous than wood, and yes, it can be sanitized more easily—at least initially. But as scratches pile up, plastic begins to look less appealing. Unlike wood, which can close back up around more minor knife scratches. Those scratches in plastic are great places for bacteria to fester.
Eventually wood can get scratched up, too, to the point where it also becomes an unsafe food preparation surface; the bright side is that it can then be sanded back to like-new condition. While wood's porous nature may seem unappealing, studies have shown that wood sucks harmful microorganisms into it via the capillary action of its fibers. There they remain, locked away until they die. On the flip side, wood requires more careful maintenance and frequent oiling, and, unlike some more durable plastic boards, can never be put in the dishwasher. It can be handy to have both in your kitchen, but We prefer to use wood as our work surface.
More info https://commonsensehome.com/wooden-cutting-boards/
A tree grows vertically, and its fibers run along that length, providing channels through which water and nutrients flow from the roots to the branches and leaves.
The cross-section of fibers that we see on a crosscuted tree we know as the tree's concentric rings are also the end-grain. Cutting boards for which the end grain is on the cutting surface—that is, where the tree's rings are visible on the surface—are often also referred to as butcher blocks.
When you cut the trunk vertically, you expose a side view of the fibers running lengthwise; this is often called the edge-grain.
Which is better? End-grain boards, where the tree rings are visible on the work surface, are slightly more gentle on your knives, since the blade can slip between the exposed individual fibers. You can't see this because the fibers are practically microscopic, but if you could zoom in, it'd look like a knife sliding between brush bristles, which close back up as soon as they knife is lifted away. This does less damage to the blade over time. The board holds up better, too, because the fibers can reset after the knife is pulled away; an end-grain board can still develop scratches, but they won't be as severe as on an edge-grain board under the same conditions.
On an edge-grain board, the knife comes down sideways onto the tree's fibers, splitting them like broken strands of spaghetti. This will wear down the blade somewhat faster, and it'll lead to gashes in the wood that won't heal so easily. The board will eventually develop deeper scratches and can even splinter, though it'd take a lot of abuse to get there.
On the other hand End-grain boards are more difficult to make, which means they're more expensive than an edge-grain board of otherwise similar build and material quality.
And any wooden board is prone to warping and cracking, since all those exposed fibers absorb and release moisture (one of their purposes in the tree was to transport water, after all).
This is a key point—there's no type of wooden cutting board that is guaranteed not to fail. High-quality expensive ones may be less likely to crap out on you, and definitely you have to care for them properly